While the march of urban development might be slowly perpetuating the original atmosphere of Ahmedabad (also known as Amdavad), the city can never be stripped off its characterful streets. Despite the frenetic pace of commercialization, Ahmedabad manages to wind back and slip into its typical easy-paced candour. It is especially great for culture inclined travellers who enjoy monument-strewn walks of those who are not bothered about the calories. After all, the food here is known to be unforgivingly rich.
 

Along with a plethora of historical sites, the food of Ahmedabad is hard to ignore. This city is the only one in India, where the term ‘nightlife’ is bereft of alcohol in clubs, latest Western music or dancing. Instead, it’s a family affair at the night markets. A number of food hotspots in the city start stirring only in the evenings and the action-packed stalls close down only after midnight. Manek Chowk, Law Garden Food Market and the Bhatiyar Gali are the main highlights if you want to surprise your palate.
 

On any given evening, all streets going to Manek Chowk in the old city are clogged with traffic. For Amdavadis, this is the best version of nightlife. It involves packing in a heavy dose of sweets and fried savoury snacks, that too after dinner. Every day, stalls start propping up in the evening with chair and tables colonizing the whole street for nocturnal foodies. Only pedestrians are allowed in this choc-a-bloc food cart heaven. The rite of passage to call yourself a foodie includes Bastiram’s rabri kulfi with no artificial essence and Imtiaz Sheikh’s bizarrely tasty chocolate and pineapple pizza. Reserve some space for Kamlesh Patel’s paan – a family recipe since 1967 has won him many regulars.  Many end the evening with Girish Cold Drinks, where you can expect your pocket to be lighter and waist heavier. This legendary establishment serves seasonal fruit falsa, saffron sprinkled thandai, lassi, milkshakes and the unforgettable Shirkhand.
 

For variety, some give Manek Chowk a miss and end up in the Law Garden Food Street.  
 

The road perpendicular to the Law Garden Market already has thriving footfall thanks to the clothes, shoes and souvenirs, so it’s easy to steer hungry shoppers for snacks after. What started as a few stalls initially is now a full blown busting street market with pop-up shops, carts and some permanent addresses. Expect chaats, snacks, Chinese fare and north Indian cuisine here. The market has an extremely festive vibe.

The veg heavy leaning of the cuisine in Ahmedabad can get tiresome for hardcore non-vegetarians. This is when a trip in the evening to Bhatiyar Gali will seem legit. Dig into prawns, mutton, fish and chicken kebabs and curries, served with hot tandoori rotis. The market is sedate until evenings, after which one has to elbow through crowds to get a seat at the stalls.
 

Ahmedabad is an alfresco diners dream come true. Ask any local and the night markets would come pat as the first recommendation on their minds. Even before the famous Amdavadi thaali.