Hair bleached with seawater
and the blistering tropical sun, Lakshit stands
at the edge of the rampart of the 17th
century Galle fort, letting his locks dance to
the tune of the wind. It’s 8 in the morning but
the temperature is stifling enough for there to
be only a handful of takers to the spectacle. I
stand right in front of a small group – camera
in hand, finger on the shutter. Lakshit inches
closer to the ledge, till his toes are off the
stone base. One. Two. Three. Off he goes flying
into the water, the wind pulling his curly locks
behind. Lakshit dives into the 40 feet drop a là
Titanic and lands in the dangerously shallow,
4ft-deep water, between craggy rocks at the
base. The clutch of crowd erupts into claps and
cheers.
I had arrived in Galle, Sri
Lanka with friends, the previous morning and
signed up for a heritage walk conducted by
writer and photographer Juliet Coombe, whose
book, ‘Around The Fort In 80 Lives’ is a
comprehensive documentation of Galle and its
people. When I told her that I was interested in
more than just the history of the place, she
suggested that I meet the cliff jumpers, and
have front row seats to their death-defying
leaps.
The next morning, rubbing
sleep from our eyes, we walked to the fort.
Thankfully, it was only a stroll away from our
hotel. The cafes along the cobblestone streets
were stirring into action, and there no trace of
sunscreen clad tourists as yet. The thick
granite ramparts were originally built by the
Portuguese in 1588 around the town of Galle, and
later fortified by the Dutch.
At the fort, I spotted a
group of young local boys, shirtless, sitting on
the wall. They laughed with casual abandon,
pulling each other’s legs. What gave them away
as cliff jumpers were the toned tanned brown
bodies. I had been told, that each of the boys
does about 5 jumps in the day and hangs around
near the fort in case there are more takers in
the season.
Curious to know more about
their lives, I walked up for a casual hello. Of
them, Lakshit, the most confident, was happy to
talk in broken English. He told me that there
were only a few of young men who jumped on a
daily basis, and managed to survive these
precarious leaps by landing flat on their
chests. “It’s an art that only a handful have
mastered,” he grinned. “Many others end up with
broken ribs.”
Lakshit’s journey started with a low household
income and sheer abhorrence for school. He took
refuge hanging around the fort wall, looking out
to the ocean and spending time with friends. He
was 12 when the group of them dared him to make
his maiden jump. He seemed to be a natural.
Soon, Lakshit realized he was drawing a large
crowd of tourists visiting the fort, and money
was in generous proportions. Fascinated
travellers watched him in awe as this was only
action packedscene in the otherwise sedate Galle.
Since then, Lakshit, now 28, has made more than
a thousand jumps off the cliff.
Our short chat ended as he
was signaled to the edge for a dive. I followed
with the camera, standing right in front. My
heart skipped a beat watching him get close to
the corner. He looked down at the water, closed
his eyes. One. Two. Three. And then he flew.
If you want to visit Galle
contact us at
engage@creative.travel |